SUIT YOURSELF

SUIT YOURSELF
Designer-duo Sarah and Sandeep reveal
insider secrets for the perfect pant-suit.
— BY REET KAUR SAHNI
The groom and his men must be dressed to perfection to truly make a stylish entrance. And designer-duo Sarah and Sandeep have mastered the art of that with their eponymous label. In fact, the Mumbai-based duo was the name behind the impeccable fittings for the recently-held Dior show at the Gateway of India in Mumbai. Previously known as SS Homme, designers Sarah and Sandeep have successfully made a mark for themselves in their decade-long career. The Dior show, for instance, saw an army of sharply-tailored suits that were designed for a discerning, global audience. In addition, the duo has also been responsible for crafting bespoke outfits for the NBA team, Sacramento Kings, during their visit to India in 2019, while also showcasing their collection in a standalone show with Porsche India. Commenting on the fittings for the Dior collection and the journey from the atelier to the runway, designer Sandeep Gonsalves elaborates on how Indian tailoring has made a mark globally with its high standards. Gonsalves shares, “Our bespoke craftsmanship in couture helped us understand the quality that is expected by a luxury brand on a global scale. It was very similar to what we had accomplished during our own 10th-year anniversary fashion show. The Dior fittings took a month to work on, where we closely worked with some of the country’s most skilled artisans.” In an exclusive interview with Bridal Asia, the designers revealed just how the groom can ensure his suit is tailored to perfection for the big day.

The shoulders of the suit jacket should align with your natural shoulder line, and the fitting should not be too tight or too loose, they let in. Revealing a trick of the trade, the designers add, “The sleeves should be long enough to reach the base of your thumb, allowing about half an inch of your shirt cuff to be visible. Another important point to keep in mind is that the suit jacket should follow the natural contours of the body. Sarah and Sandeep share, “It should be tapered at the waist to create a flattering shape, but not so tight that it restricts movement or causes pulling when buttoned.” Discussing the current colour trends in menswear, the duo recommends clients be on the lookout for navy, charcoal, black, earthy tones, and neutrals. “Shades like light brown, tan, and olive green are ideal for a more relaxed and versatile look,” they reveal. The designers also draw attention to the comeback of the double-breasted suit in recent years, especially in fabrics like tweed, herringbone, or flannel, which have become increasingly popular of late. There is, perhaps, no doubt about the fact that accessories can highlight your personality in a most impressive way. Encouraging men to explore accessorising, the designers recommend wearing bold pocket squares, unique tie clips, lapel pins, or patterned socks to add a personalised touch to an otherwise regular ensemble.

With women’s pant-suits being embraced as a bridal trend across the world, the designers share their affinity for colour-blocking and playing with different colours. “Don’t be afraid to explore beyond traditional shades like black, navy, and grey, they emphasise. Solid hues like burgundy, olive, or pastels can offer a sophisticated yet refreshing look.” Additionally, patterned suits with checks, pinstripes, or plaids, which are currently in trend, can add an extra element to your look, they share. Of course, the perfect suit requires special attention, and a faux pas must be avoided at all costs by the groom and his friends. One of them, according to the designers, is mixing too many embellishments on the outfits. Instead, they advise being selective with the add-ons, like sticking to a bow tie and cumberbund. “Avoid oversized and baggy suits, excessively shiny fabrics, and mismatched or ill-coordinated colour combinations, they state. Ultimately, itís essential to balance current trends with personal style and the overall aesthetic of the wedding.”
