Anamika Khanna’s Miracle Boys
Miracle Boys
S/S 2020
Anamika Khanna is known to be the undisputed queen of subtleness, finish and whispering embroideries. She has passed on the baton to her twins, VISHESH AND VIRAJ, 24, as they embark on a challenging trek with AK-OK, with their wits in place and a clear head that loves the Belgian mavericks from Dries Van Noten to Ann Demeulemeester.
Can you tell us about your education in the US and what besides design did you study?
Vishesh: I started as a business major in Marshall (USC), switched over to Dornsife as a double major in Economics and Psychology, and finally finished with Social Sciences (focusing on economics and psychology) and a minor in Communication Design. Both of us are 24, (just turned). USC was pretty intimidating at first, a completely new experience coupled with both of us being very shy! But over time, getting out of our comfort zones, it was definitely worth it! I think it just opened our minds to how big the world really is, living in Kolkata you kind of get a little over your head. The intensity of the courses really helped us develop our work ethic.
Did you ever think you would join your mother’s business despite knowing how tough the fashion world is?
Viraj knew all along that he was going to join my mother, I was convinced by senior year in college. I feel like we came to the realization of how much potential the brand has, in terms of growth and we decided to put in our efforts there. About AK-OK, we both came back from Los Angeles with a new vibe, new thought process, which I think intrigued my mother. She is always open to experiment and could tell that targeting the youth is where she could open up a completely different customer base! She is always up for a challenge. Collectively, we decided to work on a new collection! A- OK is a common term used in America. AK (Anamika Khanna) wasn’t well and we just said everything will be AK-OK (playing with A-OK) and it stuck.
Travis Scott and 21 Savage have been some of your influences?
Their influence has been a little more emphasised than it needs to be! I just like their music that’s all! And my mother thinks they are really cool! They influence fashion in huge ways. What they wear, America wears. Hip-hop has a major influence on clothing in the current market! My friends simply buy Off White and Supreme because of the cool factor, which rubs off from these rappers. But I am mostly influenced not by art, culture, but more by the technical aspects of clothing and experimenting. I read a lot about clothing and construction and fabrics and things that are more scientific, it’s because I have not been to design school and am more objective rather than subjective when it comes to work. I took a couple of online courses like Shingo Sato and Maurice Sedwell’s Savile Row Academy and I think that is why I’m so into the technical.
What has been your process of designing and what is the stage from mood board to final execution?
Currently, we both know that whatever we make, has to be consistent with the brand aesthetic, that’s something our mother had been clear about. There is no formal or scripted process, we brainstorm, have reference images, begin working on the samples of embroidery and colour and silhouette, etc., but as of now, everything is run through AK. It’s fascinating how constant perseverance in the design process really makes all the difference in quality and look.
What have been the lessons that your mother, a self-made designer, taught you?
Discipline is something she has always been preaching since we were young! She is a perfect example too. Waking up early and having single-minded focus, sacrificing every small pleasure to improve and work on her skill/ art. That’s what it takes to achieve what she has! Nothing comes easy! The most important thing I have personally noticed is that if something isn’t working, she will keep working on it, figure out what’s wrong, improve on it, and go the extra mile for every single detail! That’s something that helps us constantly work on new things and not give up on ideas even if they seem absurd. Design is a process, not an end game. We want to grow the business and help her with the business side of it—London, Paris and New York. She isn’t tough at all, but only if she knows you’re trying. The effort is always more emphasized than the result, so we both know we just have to put our best foot forward.
The style world is known to be fickle, what do you make of it… also how is the independent woman viewing the world?
Fashion is always changing, today younger women are much more outgoing, independent and experimental in everything they do! The clothing choices are being influenced by the West, therefore, we can see many Western aspects in different garments.
What makes the Anamika Khanna brand for a discerning few who value finish over fleeting trends?
The USP is definitely constant innovation and experimentation! My mother thinks only in terms of—what are we going to improve today, or what new thing or idea are we working on today! Finest handwork and tailoring is also something we focus on!
What have been your design influences and how did they shape your aesthetic?
While growing up, I don’t think both of us would have design influences per se; we were into cricket and golf and had no idea about the art and design world. Once we decided we were getting into this field, that’s how we began learning more and more about it, I think that’s how passion is developed, by getting more into things and learning more about them in detail. Currently, my major influence would be Rick Owens, Rei Kawakubo, Junya Watanabe, Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester and Viraj would still always proudly say Supreme and Off White!
Would you ever think of doing menswear and if so what would be the ideology?
Viraj: We want to extend the womenswear ideology to men. We want to be unique, original, experimental and at the same time respect our roots and crafts. We have actually started working on menswear since a few months and it’s going really well. We haven’t formally introduced it yet in stores. The plan is to launch it formally in Mumbai with our new store coming up in February.
Many brands are indulging in extensions— shoes, bags, perfumes, furniture and even makeup. What kind of extension would you do? At the moment we are mainly focusing on menswear and launching that. As soon as we perfect it we will extend to different design spaces.
Being twins what roles do you manage in the company; do you have disagreements?
I handle the finance and the management aspect of the business. I also look into the overall growth and strategy (for example opening a store in Mumbai). Vishesh is currently handling the major portion of menswear. So our roles are clear cut and there is no confusion. We never have disagreements related to anything. We have never fought in 24 years. We both understand each other really well and don’t do things that might bother each other. We might have a different thought or opinion of what to do in a certain situation, but once we speak about it we are always on the same page. I am the dominating one (Viraj) because I usually take a strong stand for things (and Vishesh agrees with the stand always). For me, I love intricate embroidery! I find it very fascinating.
How difficult has it been in fashion for you… have people, clients, stylists and employees embraced you?
As we have watched AK through the years one thing was very clear that fashion is one of the most difficult professions to be in. We realized it requires not just design skills but also marketing, management and finance, besides the fact that one is judged every day for whatever you do. We have been fortunate enough that we already have a strong base to start from and someone like AK to guide us so hopefully we are able to do justice to the brand. Yes, we have been lucky with people embracing us too and having been around in this space since the beginning probably makes a lot of difference. Initially, I struggled with making changes in the business structure as people had been used to certain things for many years and needed time to accept the changes. But over time things have improved and people accepted them. I have just learned to be patient and persistent.
How has your mother’s enduring friendship with Sonam Kapoor helped your label?
Her relationship with Sonam extends much more than the clothes. Of course, an association with her from the very beginning has sort of created an identity unique for both of them.
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