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Bridal Asia Magazine

Rambhajo’s Real Gem

Rambhajo's Real Gem

A/W 2019

100 years of unparalleled brilliance has made RAMBHAJO’S kundan most sought after, as they craft unforgettable stories in pure grandeur

It was the moniker given to his great grandfather Shri Kishan Gilara, in 1921, when the brand started operations in the Pink City, seeing his devotion to Lord Ram, and today Rambhajo is undoubtedly, one of the most coveted jewellery houses in the country.

Behind every success story, there is always an interesting twist, and Rambhajo has one too. Known for its wholesale manufacturing and producing kundan-polkis for almost 10o years, the fourth generation led by the articulate Nitin, decided to not only get into direct dealings with the consumer but also restore lost faith in the craft, along with his family.

“Many people didn’t want to buy kundan, as they believed the returns won’t be favourable, but I wanted to change that, one stone at a time,” he says. After doing B. Com from Jaipur and an MBA from Poddar University, he joined the family business with a keen eye on expansion, which led him to the city of dreams and the commercial hub, Mumbai. “I felt it was the right time to start operations from there. I was just 24, and had a big responsibility on my shoulders. I had to make a mark and keep the family flag flying high. We have a wide base in the city and managed to make inroads with repeat customers. Today, we have three retail outlets, Jodhpur, Mumbai and of course, our headquarters, Jaipur,” he admits.

Once Nitin regained the complete faith of his loyal buyers, he decided to start work on elevating the design prowess of kundan. But he was clear that unlike many in the trade, he will charge for the precious raw materials, not designing, as that comes with the package and brand’s identity.

Understanding the intricacies of the trade and taught by the best, being the eldest son of the family, since he was seven years old, he was handheld by his great grandfather. He trained him from cutting, ranking coloured stones, to checking the final product, and also developing an eye for detail. “He would take me around the factory, and frankly, he was my university in the art of jewellery-making,” he confesses.

Being a man with artistic tastes, Nitin decided to not limit the designing to just one corner—Jaipur—but take it across several states. So he fused Hyderabadi with Mughal aesthetic, or South Indian Temple touches with Rajput styling and created a heady cocktail. Few know that kundan means pure gold in which uncut diamonds are then set, and like a true ‘sunar’, he believes what matters the most for any good jeweller is selling an investment, not a dream. “We have people whose great grandfathers came to us and now new additions to the family come and shop with us. As value-for-money is the mantra, jewellery can’t be sold just as a fashionable ornament; it must be linked to a memory or blessing, what we call ‘shubh’, and that’s what makes it special,” he confirms.

Confirming that for almost 400 years kundan has been worn by royal families all over the country, he doesn’t want to change that technique or the process, but maybe modernise it in keeping with a younger bride’s desires. “Our jewellery has an oldworld charm, a vintage feel and we still handcraft everything, making the process laborious and intricate, but also discerning and timeless,” he confirms adding, diamonds are a new addition to the Indian landscape.

Times have changed, even in the way families buy, and Nitin admits, earlier his grandfather used to tell them stories of how the elders in the family would buy jewellery for the entire house without any interference. “Now the final call is of the bride, no matter where she is staying or studying. Until she gets what she likes, nothing will be approved,” he laughs.

He artfully narrates a story of how a new-age bride came to him, and said all she wants to wear on her big day is a passa and earrings. “I and her family both were shocked and then she took out this Mughal painting and told all of us that, this is how she hopes to look; minimal but powerful. So there is no one client and no one trend. I can tell you, it depends on individual tastes; also the personality of the bride and her thinking. Many girls may find this hard to believe or accept, as not wearing a big necklace is a given, but there are always exceptions to this rule,” he says.

What works in jewellery now is effective styling and how people are being able to put the pieces together, like Kolkata’s wonder boy Sabyasachi Mukherjee does, in an organic way that even disparate looks fall seamlessly together. “Jewellery is a decoration; it enhances your beauty, and now we have seen that the jewellery the bride wears, its motifs, are added on to the groom’s sherwani to make a kind of bonding between the two in a subtle, almost invisible manner,” he says, adding that he never personally wears any jewels.

The brand which upholds Indianness with pride never uses a European face. Rather, ‘Dream Girl’ Hema Malini they find to be apt as a celeb, who could carry off their bold pieces with confidence. Even Devdas star and BJP member Kirron Kher who wears jewellery beautifully with her brocade saris is a perfect example of a Rambhajo woman. A petite star would never do justice to the heritage and nostalgia the brand brings along with it as it is statement-y and khandani. “Expertise to craft is one thing; trust is something we have learnt to value more, as that’s what keeps you afloat and also sets you apart from others in the trade,” he concludes.

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