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Bridal Asia Magazine

THE MASTERPIECES

THE MASTERPIECES

The once royal jeweller to the Nizam of Hyderabad, SHIV NARAYAN offers a royal addition to your wedding trousseau.

The last Nizam of Hyderabad, Mir Osman Ali Khan [1886-1967] was a true aesthete, widely considered as one of the world’s wealthiest people. So a brand founded by his head jeweller, Seth Sri Shiv Narayan, could only be defined by the word ‘perfection’. Today, the legacy of Hyderabad-based Shiv Narayan has made a mark across time and continents with their remarkable designs that bridge the know-how of the past with the demands of the present. “To create the Nizam’s many masterpieces, Sri Shiv Narayan ji spent many hours nurturing his love for the craft,” says Tushar Agarwal, Managing Director of Shiv Narayan. After all this time, their goal, even today, is the same—to innovate and create groundbreaking jewellery. “We include a fine blend of generational techniques and modern technology to create jewels that are charming and truly beautiful. Olden techniques help us understand the raw materials and today’s inventions help us fine-tune them to match our incomparable creativity,” Agarwal adds. Take the emerald necklaces from their ‘Charming Chatter’ collection, for instance…each piece is highlighted with detailed cutting, diamonds, and other precious stones. In other collections, there are diamond and gold rings in the shape of a peacock, crowns encrusted with emeralds and polki, and other creations that play with geometrical shapes.

While browsing through their collection, one often sees polki designs, which instantly grab the eye of the viewer. Discussing the various kinds of polki settings, Rawat informs, “There are essentially two kinds of settings: the traditional jadau setting, which requires the use of wax and a ribbon of 24-karat gold (known as kundan) to seal the stone in place; and the bezel setting, commonly known as ‘open setting’, where the polki is slightly more exposed due to the absence of the kundan around it. In this case, the pieces are lighter in weight as no wax is required to set the stones.” With notable experience in the industry, Rawat sheds light on the emergence of the open setting as a relatively recent style that complements contemporary designs. Elaborating more on this setting of polki, he adds that it is often set with a combination of full-cut diamonds making it as easy to wear with western outfits as with traditional ones. Rawat further attributes polki’s popularity as the go-to choice for young buyers owing to its light weight.

In fact, it is this seamless blend between the play of line and intricate stonework that makes Shiv Narayan’s pieces all the more important. “Most of our creations involve intricate detailing that helps increase their brilliance,” Agarwal explains, adding, “Four of our treasured pieces draw direct inspiration from our heritage and the many epics of India history. In fact, The Ganesha Pendant, The Ram Darbar, The Satlada Necklace, and The Magnifying Glass have achieved a total of eight Guinness World Records Titles.” The gemstones for their creations are sourced from around the world. Once these stones arrive in their workshops, they are carefully analysed to decide whether they perfectly match the jewels and their imagined designs. “The cut is, then, specifically determined and executed by our master artisans to match our vision. In this process, every stone is given importance and filled with emotion,” Agarwal adds, rather poetically. Since the brand creates masterpieces with rare gemstones, customisations aren’t undertaken very often. However, you can rest assured that your piece will be absolutely unique, since the gemstones are of such high quality, repeating them is quite impossible. That is, in fact, the reason why some of the world’s most prominent faces and celebrities turn to the trusted jewellers to create their own heirloom pieces. What, according to Agarwal, are the bridal trends this season? Giving respect to personal taste, Agarwal insists that trends are subjective, and selections are most often made depending on personal choice. “The four, most sought-after gemstones continue their reign—emeralds, rubies, sapphires, and diamonds. In addition, other gemstones that are ‘always trending’ include corals and tanzanites, among others.”
Their current collection, Rikasa, draws on the natural beauty of the emerald and its exquisite essence. “Our craftsmen have spent countless hours understanding gemstones and their many nuances to craft these pieces. As a result, we have made sure the gemstones are of the best cut, colour, and clarity. That is what makes this collection special—the effort, emotion, and care with which each piece is crafted to maximise the beauty of the materials and celebrate the wonders of the Earth,” Agarwal shares. It is no wonder that Shiv Narayan’s creations sometimes take years to envision, execute, and perfect. When you do visit them to select the perfect piece for your wedding, take a moment to appreciate the generations of craftsmanship you hold in your hands…it is a testament to beauty, of the stone and yourself.