WHAT HAPPENS WHEN you aspire to be a scientist, but your family that runs a gemstone business insists you choose commerce? Well, some can do it, and yet find ways to weave their original interest into their jobs. They can become master craftsmen. That’s what Ankit Lodha did with himself and his company, Jewels of Jaipur.

“I was always interested in research and innovation and that’s why science fascinated me, as there is a design in nature and maths. But at 19, I went to Sydenham College to study commerce and, in my spare time, learnt about gemstones. The real work started when I travelled to the Gemological Institute of America, a research institution in Carlsbad, California, and understood how we could take it a step further,” he says.

He came back and began making jewellery. He learnt polishing, filing, soldering and setting a diamond on his own. In fact, Ankit became so adept that he can now teach a few sassy tricks to his karigars. “This helped. Now, if they say that this particular intricate design is not possible, I know when they are lying,” he smiles.

Being an avid traveller, Ankit took a trip to Kashmir and fell in love with pashmina shawls. His staff and family got gifts when he came back, but more importantly, the Chinar leaf became a leitmotif, and so did the Dal Lake and Shikara selling roses that he later converted into cocktail rings. “We decoded the Kashmiri look. The passa, for example, is a stunning piece of history of that culture,” he adds.

Ankit is never short of inspirations and Anoora, his next line, paid homage to Noor Jehan and her kanphools, and how she was depicted in miniature paintings. “We used pearls as they are so elegant, and created jhumkis, mixing them with rubies. Diamonds and gold have now taken a backseat and brides want something that has an antique aura,” he explains.

Innovation, Ankit believes, is the key to moving ahead. He cautions that if a particular look is working, don’t copy it. Create your own path, as if you are not original, you will fail. Despite being a jeweller who sells dreams every day, he never wears any bauble and jokes with his family. “I am already so heavy that I don’t need anything more to weigh me down”. This year, Ankit embarked on a unique journey and is attempting to capture the voices of the brides—what they are thinking while they are getting married, and what their fears and concerns are. He hopes to thread them together through the medium of precious stones—a tone for every feeling. “You know, it is quite interesting that there are different kinds of brides, mentally in their sacred spaces. But jewellers offer the same thing to everybody without even understanding what the woman wants. I thought why don’t we make diversifications—tomboyish (sporty, so more chokers), creative (writer, so pinkish red) and emotional, and then designers or businessmen, who like chunky pieces that you can see from far. Each one will get attracted to something that she resonates with; they can be statement pieces but they need to be light and wearable,” he explains.

He cites the example of two sisters who got married two years apart, and how their thinking was totally different based on their personalities. The elder one was a career woman, but docile, and let her grandmom and dad take the lead on everything. “The younger one wanted things on her own terms. The family came only to nod in approval, and pay the bills,” he giggles. “I don’t know if my child would want to get into this trade; it is frankly nerve-wracking. Being a bit of a rebel myself, I would never make him do what doesn’t fire his interests,” he adds.

Jewelry business runs on trust, and one needs to maintain that relationship. The unfortunate part is that the industry is infiltrated by crooks, who look at short-term goals. “Sabyasachi has made a mark and set a benchmark. That’s why people are ready to pay his price. But jewelers don’t have that prowess, as the competition is so high that the customer will immediately abandon you for something that looks bigger and is cheaper. Very few of them care about quality,” he says. 

Even though Ankit is still finding his way around how he wants to take his brand forward, he says he had a vision a few years ago, while walking with his brother in San Diego, US. He saw an NBC TV channel hoarding on a huge building. “I want something like that for my brand. I want such a towering presence all over the world.”